Pench National Park
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Central India
Central India
The heart of the country, and the subcontinent as a whole – is quite definitely one of the best places to start one’s explorations of the Indian jungles.
This is the land of Bengal Tiger and the other key members of India’s forest ensemble. Many a tale has emerged from this region over the centuries, inspired by the wildlife, the myriad indigenous tribal communities and the exploits of the Maharajas. The most well-known of these stories was put together by Rudyard Kipling from his residence at Seonee near Pench Tiger Reserve. Living among these forests, travelling between dense jungles and hearing the stories of the land from the day to day encounters of tribal folk and wildlife officials, inspired Mr.Kipling to create his masterpiece, the Jungle Book.
The dense jungles of the Satpuras, the drainages of the Narmada and the Chambal rivers, the dhonk forests and plateaus of the Vindhyas continue to stand strong as a wilderness in the new India, weaving a plethora of new stories to delight our wild hearts. Thanks to well thought out conservation efforts National Parks like Bandhavgarh, Kanha, Satpura, Pench and Panna have over the years earned their rightful spot among the top wilderness destinations on the planet.
Exploring the rolling hills, tall woodlands, vast grasslands and meadows, shady nullahs and hidden pugdundees is what safari-ing here is all about. The shrill cry of the Chital, the deep roar of the Tiger, the whooping call of the monkeys and the morning alarm of the peacocks are the tunes we seek. Life here involves following clues, listening to the sounds and seeking the royal stripes. And we have the best people in place to help you with just that.
01
Satpura National Park
The Satpuras, the dominant hill range of Central India, form the southern wall of the Narmada rift valley. These forested highlands stretch west to east, stretching across the heart of this ancient landmass. A large chunk of this undulating terrain, around 4000 sq. km, has been declared as Satpura Tiger Reserve, the largest tiger reserve in the country.
02
Bandhavgarh National Park
In the eastern extreme of Central India, there is a knot that is formed where the Vindhyas and the Maikal Hills meet. In this wilderness pocket, under the towering presence of a 1 st century fortress ruin lays a Tiger kingdom like no other. Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve has got to be one of the most evocative tiger habitats on the planet. Cradled amidst the picturesque hills, Bandhavgarh was a former hunting ground of the Maharajas before turning into a Tiger Sanctuary in the 1970s.
03
Kanha National Park
The Eastern Maikal Hills along the borders of the tribal districts of Central India were once a large unbroken wilderness that Tigers and specialists like the Barasingha or the Hard-ground Swamp Deer and the Wild Buffalo roamed freely. What remains of this wilderness is now Kanha National Park, a conglomerate of rolling hills, meadows and Sal forests. The Wild Buffalo has disappeared from these parts but Kanha continues to protect the apex predators and the endemic Barasingha.
04
Panna National Park
In the extreme north-west of Central India, south of the great Gangetic plain lies dry table land of Bundelkhand. This area is well known for the temples at Khajuraho and the diamond mines that are scattered along its valleys. But there is a wildlife story in Bundelkhand like no other. The combined forces of the Ken River and the Vindhyan flat-topped hills create more than just a visual break in this dry landscape.
05
Pench National Park
Pench Tiger Reserve is the southern-most Tiger Reserve of Central India. Here, in the backwaters of the Pench River lies a wilderness that is said to have inspired Rudyard Kipling’s writings. In fact this forest patch is popularly known as Kipling country. Pench is largely a teak forest, the ideal growth in the trap soils that form the base of this wilderness.
Canoe Safari on the Denwa Backwaters
The no-motor options of Satpura aren’t restricted just to walks on land but extend to vast network of Denwa’s backwaters. This water body not only hugs the park’s northern boundary but forms arteries deep into the forest. Canoe safaris, guided by experienced locals who were once fishermen, provide one with a chance to quietly paddle along the park’s edge and slip into the narrower channels, some just a few feet wide. Watching birds, Crocodiles and the mammals that visit the banks as one sits on a small canoe, has got to be one of the top experiences in the country. In the summer, as water levels drop, large mud islands are exposed that attract a variety of birdlife including Skimmers and Pratincoles, that prefer these islands as nesting grounds. The lack of noise of the canoe and its ability to beach and unbeach with ease makes it possible for a slow approach to get incredibly close to these birds. Overall, canoeing in Satpura has got to be on top of everyone’s wilderness bucket list of India.
“Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?”
“That depends a good deal on where you want to get to.”
“I don’t much care where –”
“Then it doesn’t matter which way you go.”
― Lewis Carroll
Beyond the Tigers…
It is important that we look at Satpura as a wilderness experience “beyond the Tiger”. The moist mixed deciduous forests have so much to offer for the keen eye. It is in many ways the land of the Baloo, Mugger, Indian Skimmer and the Rusty- spotted Cat. The flow of seasons, the changing shape and colour of the canopy, the dropping water levels in the Denwa River and the high species diversity create a series of transformations that make the park unrecognizable at different times of the year. Satpura is a time capsule, a sample space of what was, a place that fills everyone with wonder, taking each one back to words of James Forsyth, the time of exploration and discovery.
Story Highlight
Despite the numbers of star carnivores in Satpura, the mixed deciduous forests with their seasonal fruiting diversity and the rich forest floor have created a new star for the Central India, the Baloo or the Sloth Bear. In the land of the Tiger, the bears of Satpura have found their own home turf in these forests, roaming through every part of the park in search of termites, fruits and flowers.
Walking safaris and cycling safaris in Pench
Walking safaris and cycling safaris are a great way to slow down the pace and take in the wilderness of Pench from a very different perspective. Pack up a few sandwiches, tea and some water, and an openness to take in more, and the possibilities provided by the jungle now are endless. Whether one is exploring the forest in a vehicle or through one of the no- motor modes, Pench over the years has proven to be a truly exciting and abundant wilderness. One definitely shouldn’t expect any less from Kipling’s backyard.
The Story of Kanha
The story of Kanha is not of the Tiger, though the park boasts one of the highest Tiger numbers in India. (over a 100 individuals). The story of this park is the story of one lesser known but equally majestic species – the Barasingha. These large deer were once widespread across the marshy grasslands of Eastern India but disappeared to near extinction over the centuries of hunting and habitat loss. Accelerated efforts by conservation bodies, researchers and the wildlife authorities have brought the Barasingha back from the brink. Today, over 600 of these Barasingha roam the meadows of Kanha.
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JUNE 6/2021 | WILDLIFE
Central India – the heart of the country, and the subcontinent as a whole – is quite definitely one of the best places to start one’s explorations of the Indian jungles. This is the land of the Bengal Tiger and other key members of India’s forest ensemble. Many a tale have emerged from this region over the centuries, inspired by the wildlife,
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Central India is the pivot that brings together and holds together the entire Indian experience. With influences from the Himalayas to the deltaic regions, from the impregnable desert to varied peninsular India, Central India is an amalgam, impacted and impacting the Indian epic in a way that no other region does.
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Stays
Sentinels of frontier lands, accommodation partners of WATCH are beyond being just hotels, lodges and retreats. They are showcases of the authentic and invaluable, ensuring their propagation and celebration. World class hospitality is a natural derivative of this pride in their heritage and legacy.
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Jehan Numa Retreat, Bhopal
On the outskirts of Bhopal, the Jehan Numa Retreat is a peaceful hideaway, enthralling you with its views of nature and large open areas. Bhopal's landmark Van Vihar Urban National Park shares its borders with Jehan Numa Retreat's 12.5-acre sprawling, lush campus. In keeping with its conservation-based approach, no trees were harmed in the building of this property, while numerous new ones have been planted and cared for, creating a virtual woodland.
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Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, Sohagpur
The largest tiger reserve in Madhya Pradesh, Satpura National Park, is just a short drive away from the superbly designed conservation and wildlife retreat from the house of Jehan Numa Wilderness, Reni Pani Jungle Lodge. Ideally located near the wilderness trifecta of Pachmarhi, Bori and Satpura, Reni Pani Jungle Lodge epitomises Jehan Numa Group's high standards for service and quality.
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Bori Safari Lodge, Shahpur
Located in the lush and rustic Dhapada hamlet in Madhya Pradesh, Bori Safari Lodge is a wonderful place to get away from the daily grind. The Bori Wildlife Sanctuary is just a short drive away, and the village lodge is set among a 7.5-acre farmland estate. It's the perfect place to get a taste of village life without sacrificing the convenience of a modern traveller.
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Kipling Camp, Kanha
Kipling Camp is the perfect venue to get up close and personal with Kanha National Park's wildlife. Kipling Camp has evolved through the years, keeping true to the founding values or original wildlife, conservation, and community support ethos, which remain unchanged. When it comes to running and managing a wildlife lodge, Kipling Camp has set the standard for all to follow.
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Jamtara Wilderness Camp, Pench
One of the most luxurious tented camps in Pench is Jamtara Wilderness Camp. As each tent looks out over the forest and a dry riverbed surrounded by big Arjuna trees and an ancient Banyan, this jungle experience has the perfect backdrop.
TESTIMONIALS
Words from our Guests
Here are few inspiring words that drive us to veer off the beaten track to look for the beyond. Exploring and sharing the hidden wonders of this awe-inspiring land for that acknowledging nod, a simple smile, a few kind words is in a nutshell our raison d’être.
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Memoir
From pensive sojourns to penning ideas whose time has come, our WATCH experts and partners are as passionate about sharing their ideas, observations and life experiences as they are travelling to the hidden destinations. Read their recent writings.
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This content is restricted to site members. If you are an existing user, please log in. New users may register below.Existing Users Log InUsername or