Ladakh
Land of the High Passes
and the domain of the Grey Ghost
Ladakh, the Indian trans-Himalaya, is one of the last bastions of Tibetan Buddhism in the 21st century. With its richness of history, culture and landscapes, it has become a happy hunting ground for visitors of every stripe – from tourists ticking off exotic destinations, seekers of spiritual bliss, thrill seekers aboard motorcycles or rubber rafts, adventurers, walkers – and finally the eternal optimists questing after the Holy Grail of montane wildlife – the Snow Leopard.
The Trans-Himalaya is the high, forbidding mountain region that lies north of the spine – and in the rain shadow – of the Great Himalayas. It is essentially a high altitude desert and, like all deserts, harbours a deceptive richness of life. The landscape is stark, precipitous, deeply fissured, studded with unexpected plateaus and interwoven with sparkling streams edged with lush vegetation – all set against the sublime backdrop of snow-capped peaks and glaciers. The sheer tortured grandeur of this landscape reflects the giant, seismic forces resulting from the collision of the Indian tectonic plate with that of Eurasia, that lead to its formation.
The Wilderness of Ladakh
Ladakh is a union territory of India (over 70,000 sqr km), situated at an average altitude of 12000 feet. The sparse population is settled along habitable river valleys in agrarian communities ranging from tiny hamlets to substantial villages and small towns often dominated by a picturesque monastery. Nomadic herders roam the high eastern plateau with their flocks of sheep and Pashmina goats. With a population density of less than 3 people per square kilometer, (most settled in the capital – Leh) Ladakh is essentially a large nature reserve. It is home to over 40 mammal species, 400 bird species, 50-60 butterflies and even a few reptiles. Such a high faunal diversity can only be supported by a diverse flora, seen in full bloom during the summer. The Snow Leopard is the apex predator of this ecosystem with an array of wild prey like Bharal, Urial and the Asiatic Ibex. In 1987, Ladakh’s first national park – Hemis High Altitude National Park was established in the Zanskar Range between the Indus and Markha rivers.
FINDING THE BIG CAT
Snow Leopard tracking is one of the most unique wilderness experiences on the planet. It is nearly impossible to even find signs of a cat by one’s own efforts, let alone finding them. The unforgiving alien terrain, the vast territories held by the cats and their camouflage makes the task even more difficult. No wonder they are known as the ‘Grey Ghost of the Himalaya’.
“If you want to know the truth of who you are, walk until not a person knows your name. Travel is the great leveler, the great teacher, bitter as medicine, crueler than mirror-glass. A long stretch of road will teach you more about yourself than a hundred years of quiet.”
― Patrick Rothfuss
Conservation and Tourism
It is a universally recognized fact that long term wildlife conservation rests upon the goodwill of local people. The benefits from wildlife should outweigh the costs of having predators as neighbours and their wild prey competing with your livestock for fodder. Conservation tourism is the worldwide tool to achieve this goal. This was realized early by the late Rinchen Wangchuk, the founding Director of the Snow Leopard Conservancy (SLC) India Trust.
Rare Cats
In the summer months, further areas like the Changthang Plateau, known for its blue waters and rich avifauna, turned into wildlife hotspots focusing on rare cats like the Pallas’s Cat and charismatic birds like the Black-necked Cranes, Saker Falcons and Tibetan Sandgrouse. Herds of Tibetan Wild Ass, packs of Himalayan Wolves and even the rare Tibetan Sand Fox roam the rolling hills of this plateau.
Spreading the message of Conservation Tourism across Ladakh
Ladakh is deceptively rich in its richness of wildlife and experiences across all seasons. The success of the Snow Leopard Tourism model in Rumbak quickly spread to other regions of Ladakhi influencing a plethora of communities and wildlife populations. Ulley, Mangyu, Stok and even parts of Nubra came under the umbrella of conservation tourism focused on wildlife. Snow Leopard and other wildlife sightings were not restricted to the limits of the National Park anymore.
There is a lot to see and experience in every corner of Ladakh
Even a casual drive through the countryside can bring about encounters with the curious Marmots who burrow by the roadsides, skittish Pikas and Weasels that reside among rock walls and scree slopes, to a wandering Red Fox searching for an easy meal. Even the mountains of Dras play host to a very secretive large carnivore, in fact the largest land carnivore in the country. The spring months, the time of snow melt, awaken the hibernating Himalayan Brown Bears from their winter retreats. The area around Drass, almost across the entire region of Western Ladakh, sees a sudden explosion in the Brown Bear numbers from April. The bears move far and wide across the mountains in the following months in search of food before returning to their dens with full bellies with the onset of winter.
Such is the incredible diversity and the scope of wildlife experiences in this vast cold desert landscape of the Indian Trans-Himalaya.
RECOMMENDED
Itineraries
JUNE 6/2021 | WILDLIFE
Ladakh, the land of high passes, is a region in the northernmost stretches of India with blurred boundaries of culture and traditions between neighbouring countries like Tibet and China. In the past, the region’s strategic location at the crossroads of several trade routes was a lifeline for its people, which tourism today provides. Ladakh’s tranquil, turquoise lakes, adventure sports like river rafting and trekking, and the numerous Buddhist monasteries, high altitude wildlife, make it among the most unique destinations in India.
JUNE 6/2019 | CULTURE
In a country of a billion and half and still counting, Ladakh is one of those rare places where people are few and far between. While high passes and spectacular mountains dominate the region, it is also a place that speaks of the thousands of years that travelers, craftsmen, preachers and nomads have come upon. A jewel in the crown of India, Ladakh not just amazes with its landscape and people, but also hides unique wildlife. While many passes make up Ladakh’s stunning landscape yet experiencing a place like this is bound to leave every traveler breathless both spiritually and by altitude.
RECOMMENDED
Stays
Sentinels of frontier lands, accommodation partners of WATCH are beyond being just hotels, lodges and retreats. They are showcases of the authentic and invaluable, ensuring their propagation and celebration. World class hospitality is a natural derivative of this pride in their heritage and legacy.
CONSCIOUS LUXURY
Leh – Grand Dragon Hotel
Leh’s only star-rated hotel, the Grand Dragon is a luxury hotel a short distance away from the main markets. The Grand Dragon is centrally heated, solar powered, with state-of-the-art amenities from lounges to restaurants, an indoor gym and conference space – making it a great all-year-round accommodation.
WILDERNESS
Ulley – Snow Leopard Lodge
Ladakh’s only dedicated, all-year-round wildlife lodge, the Snow Leopard Lodge is one among a handful of wood and stone cottages in the Ulley village. It was started as a homestay to harness tourism revenue for the local community and was then taken over to promote the exclusive snow leopard experience.
UNDERSTATED LUXURY
LUNGMĀR
The LUNGMĀR emphasises exclusivity and an intimate approach to the wilderness. They have ten tents in two styles for adventurous travellers looking for the grey ghost.The SHAN SUITE Suite and the IRBIS SUITE are two large geodesic dome tents with en-suite bathrooms. Six Quonset-style KURKHANG Tents provide a traditional take on the remote bush camp. They provide a warm and well-furnished bedroom in the main tent and also separate showers and toilets.
CONSCIOUS LUXURY
Leh – Grand Dragon Hotel
Leh’s only star-rated hotel, the Grand Dragon is a luxury hotel a short distance away from the main markets. The Grand Dragon is centrally heated, solar powered, with state-of-the-art amenities from lounges to restaurants, an indoor gym and conference space – making it a great all-year-round accommodation.
WILDERNESS
Ulley – Snow Leopard Lodge
Ladakh’s only dedicated, all-year-round wildlife lodge, the Snow Leopard Lodge is one among a handful of wood and stone cottages in the Ulley village. It was started as a homestay to harness tourism revenue for the local community and was then taken over to promote the exclusive snow leopard experience.
UNDERSTATED LUXURY
LUNGMAR
The LUNGMAR emphasises exclusivity and an intimate approach to the wilderness. They have ten tents in two styles for adventurous travellers looking for the grey ghost.The SHAN SUITE Suite and the IRBIS SUITE are two large geodesic dome tents with en-suite bathrooms. Six Quonset-style KURKHANG Tents provide a traditional take on the remote bush camp. They provide a warm and well-furnished bedroom in the main tent and also separate showers and toilets.
TESTIMONIALS
Words from our Guests
Here are few inspiring words that drive us to veer off the beaten track to look for the beyond. Exploring and sharing the hidden wonders of this awe-inspiring land for that acknowledging nod, a simple smile, a few kind words is in a nutshell our raison d’être.
DANIELA & THOMAS
United States of America
IMEE
United States of America
SHEILA
United States of America
BROD
Australia
STEVEN AND MARY
United States of America
FARIBA & HORMOZ
United States of America
Blue Dot Travel
Blue Dot
Claudia wolf
Founder TIKKA TOURS Australia
Eric Kareus
Director of Travel + Co-Owner
ATJ Travel, Boulder, CO USA
FROM OUR
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Ladakh – Land of the High Passes and the domain of the Grey Ghost
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